FDCI x Lakme Fashion Week 2021: Arpita Mehta’s exotic ‘Reflections’ to Pankaj & Nidhi’s up-beat ‘Kaleido’; all the sartorial drama that unleashed on Day 1 of the phygital soiree


Opening up the treasure chest yet again, the joint phygital seasonless FDCI x Lakmé Fashion Week has given us a lot to look forward to. Check out the sartorial magic that unfolded on the runway on the first day of the joint fashion week.


Staring the sartorial soiree with a bang, the 31st batch of the INIFD Gen Next programme showcased two talented designers with eight garments each.

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Wajahat Rather’s collection “Maazi” was an ode to craft as well as innovative fashion for the trendy dresser. It recreated memories of the past and brought to centre stage the paisley motif in all its glorious beauty. This was unveiled through a thought process of glitch and metamorphosis in the form of embroidery, as the paisleys appeared in pixelated motifs that changed into barcodes.

Detailing like small, extended, shoulder flaps, minute piped edging and layering of various sheer or opaque Pherans over long-sleeved blouses and trousers; brought variety to the collection. Gathers appeared under yokes to give an interesting silhouette to the Pheran, while scarves were a stylish addition either on the head or around the neck. The colour story remained muted with ivory, grey and brown highlighted with the intricate embroidery and fine fabric texturing.


Rahul Dasgupta’s men’s wear line had a classic appeal but with a marked contemporary touch that will please the sartorial requirements of the stylish Indian man. Putting an emphasis on surface development techniques but with traditional methods of crafting, the look was relaxed, elegant, stylish, and yet totally practical. The frayed detailing, intense ribbing effect on the garments and the rippling of fabrics on the kurtas, brought forth a new dimension in men’s wear. The colours moved from grey to blue, black, brown and finally ended in a crescendo of bright red.

Keeping Shibori as the primary traditional craft technique on cotton dori and cutout selvage of fabrics, Rahul merged these to produce eye-catching fabrics on organza and cotton. Another stunner was the cotton dori dyed in Shibori, for the jacket that was lined elegantly with Shibori and worn with a silk organza bagalbandi style kurta. Sherwanis remained at times true to the classic silhouette but were textured luxuriously and teamed with narrow trousers. Detailing appeared on the waist and sleeves of the sherwani, while flap pockets added an intricate touch.


Bloni presented its gender-fluid tie-dye collection on Day 1 of the Lakme Fashion Week. This year, they have introduced marine plastic waste textile giving it a new life. Blending tech-generated fabrics with local artisanal techniques, hand crochet and knitting along with glazed fabrics, clean silhouettes and gender-neutral shapes blur the visual distinction and formed a strong base for this collection.


The Logitech concept inspired Arpita Mehta to bring forth a collection called “Reflections” that explored the unique style elements within women. Starting with florals for the versatile woman, Arpita moved to abstract prints for the bold strong user, then onto the whimsical leaf design for the boho-chic woman and Arpita finally ended with the butti print for the understated dresser.

The summer palette came alive for the collection and comprised a variety of soothing hues, which was also divided into a quartet of shades. There were neutral sand tones, and relaxing ocean colours that brought in variations of summer blue, yellow of the mango and the flame red inspired by the setting sun.

Mirror work was discreetly brought in to edge the beach robes. Shades of blueprints on white gave the ruffled blouse, pre-stitched saris, beach covers and light summer jackets a holiday/resort vibe. The crossover mini splashed with sea blueprint and multiple fringes gave a fun element to the garment. The detailing was restricted to suede fringes, tassels and cowries that added a touch of feminine glamour to the holiday, resort-style ensembles.


Lakmé Salon x Pankaj & Nidhi’s graphic-cool show, Kaleido, was a celebration of new beginnings on the ramp -- of unbridled self-expression and an optimistic look at the future. It was a collection of free-flowing hair looks and bright-hued, flowy garments that encourage women to embrace and enhance their natural form.

Pankaj & Nidhi’s geometrically sharp and precise collection came in a burst of rainbow hues of brilliant reds, luscious oranges, unabashed pinks, ultra-violet blues, and electric greens. The silhouettes included flowing maxi and mini dresses to kick back and let loose and tailored co-ord sets with sporty elements, to acknowledge our pursuits towards wellness and fitness. The fabrics were sheer, translucent, breathable and easy-to-wear.

The visual vocabulary of the collection was sharp and precise in a rainbow palette and in a mélange of retro-graphic patterns. The shine of prismatic elements is also interpreted in the holographic embroidery; dexterously hand-cut appliqués in triangles, squares, and diamonds with grading evocative of the transition of light from its colorless form to its disbursed spectrum. 



Now that was quite a start. Can't wait to see what Day 2 brings us!

(Source- Lakme Fashion Week)