It was all about sustainability on the Day 2 of the Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2019. We saw several designers showcase their collection keeping in mind the sustainability factor.
CIRCULAR DESIGN CHALLENGE
From over 900 entries, leading to eight finalists, I was a Sari emerged as the winner of the first sustainability award in fashion – the Circular Design Challenge, launched in partnership with Fashion For Earth by R|Elan, UN Environment and Lakmé Fashion Week – and won a chance to showcase its creations at The Studio during Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2019. The collection re-emphasised ‘I was a Sari’s’ values in circularity and sustainability – showcasing 18 upcycled looks, handcrafted by women artisans using pre-loved saris and other waste materials.
Saris, with their rich profusion of prints and colours, were transformed into men's ready-to-wear pieces, women's wear and accessories, aimed at a production process with zero waste, utilised the rich borders and pallus of the Sari and enhanced the designs with surface embellishments.
The opening show on Sustainable Fashion Day at Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2019, was a unique collaboration between C&A Foundation, a corporate foundation here to transform the fashion industry, and 11.11/eleven eleven; a Prét label by the entrepreneurs Shani Himanshu, and Mia Morikawa. The two organisations came together to share a collection made from sustainable, organic cotton sourced directly from a certified producer. They also invited farmers to take the stage to share their experience of organic cultivation.
The Khadi creations inspired by Chandni Chowk’s architecture, colours and people had a marked ethnic touch. The line comprised relaxed salwars, kameezes, dupatta, voluminous kurtas, cool dhotis, saris, scarves and turbans. Hand embroidery played an important part as the garments were etched with delicate patterns.
The line-up of women’s wear in deep mustard had tunics, midi kurta and a smock along with blouson as well as slate grey wrap waist tunic, loose kurta, slim crossover tunics and an interesting grey/white pleated midi. Colour came in when a grey fuchsia pleated dress worn with pants and two fuchsia tunics with stripes brought exciting glamour on the ramp. The final fuchsia lean midi was the feminine end to the line.
Working with Khadi for his collection this season, the Khanijo label brought in a mélange of history into the present and then looked at the future trends.
The garments had the relaxed easy silhouettes that Maku is renowned for. Presenting a collection of saris, interspersed with dresses, the show started with a neutral brown striped sari, moved on to more versions of the same, teamed with boxy blouses and then moved to the dresses. Men’s wear was restricted to two entries comprising a striped shirt unstructured jacket and another shirt with giant patches and slim trousers. The fabrics were restricted to jamdaani and Khadi in dark hues of stark black with hints of pencil stripes or tiny motifs.
The creations in varying silhouettes offered low crotch pants with a fluid blouse, loose kurtas, baggy dress with hem detailing strappy maxi, dusty beige dress with micro pleated sleeves and a lehenga with an asymmetric blouse in a two tone-print offered interesting East/West options. The one- sleeve kaftan and the white fluid printed dress had a fresh feel. Detailing appeared in the form of intricate tucks and pleats, which were hand done. Saris appeared in a variety of prints in soft hues of peach, beige, lilac, blue, grey, yellow and black.
Closing the show was Bollywood star Malavika Mohanan who sailed down the ramp in a printed sari with an extremely detailed blouse.
The garments had Soham’s design directions, as relaxed pants, comfy blouses, feminine tunics and jackets appeared on the elegant models as they glided down the ramp. Opening the presentation with a great black and gold checked sari, the show moved to a brown pantsuit and trapeze style blouse, layered kurtas with wide pants and a great horizontal striped maxi with side pleats. The boxy blouse with a full-flared skirt, black shift over flouncy skirt and the asymmetric shirt with cropped cigarette pants presented great separates for a mix and match story.
the Antar Agni label took fashion for men and women to a much higher sartorial level, when the show focused on the fact that wearing the similarly designed garment can still enable the dressers to celebrate their individual personality. The sharp silhouettes were very apparent along with the characteristic drapes that Antar Agni is renowned for. The mélange of draped, fluid kurtas and tailored jackets revealed the complete control, designer Ujjawal Dubey had over his label’s fortè. Keeping the colour story partial to ivory, Ujjawal turned towards strokes of pigeon blue, mouse grey, teal, deep brown, tan and hints of silver-grey to cater to the Winter/ Festive season.
The designer first selected her colour story, which started with a grey and black and then swiftly moved to inserts of teal, ecru and deep blood red. Next, Urvashi turned her attention to a vast rich selection of fabrics that had handwoven Khes from Punjab, detailed Shibori, tie-dye from Churu in Rajasthan and then chose Maheshwari silks from Maheshwar.
There was impressive symmetry in Urvashi’s engineered silhouettes. Multiple panels were balanced with seams and woven stripes. Her leitmotif has always been intricate hand pleating, which was creatively seen on natural textiles along with Kantha work. The sharply cut 3-piece suit with notched lapels and single button closure was a perfect winter offering, red winter coat, while the layered, flouncy, ruffled maxi skirt styled with a long-sleeved shirt was a perfect dual offering.
ABRAHAM & THAKORE
Day Two at Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2019 had a spectacular end. It was the launch of LENZINGTM ECOVEROTM a superb sustainable and environmentally responsible viscose fibre that was turned into a grand collection of iconic Indian kurtas by top designers Abraham & Thakore.
Men’s kurtas - some with epaulettes, and strategic placement of dots, lines and leaf appliqués.Women’s wear featured elegant saris, skirts, ombré shirts, 3D leaf appliquéd skirt, kurtas also with epaulettes, mini pencil skirt, cropped tops, handkerchief-sleeve black/white dress and striped mini with patch pockets.
(Source-Instagram, Viral Bhayani)